For they are far bigger than my stomach. Unfortunately, that didn't stop me from stuffing my face with everything that came into my line of sight.

I had barely finished reading this week's Talk of the Town in the New Yorker when I realized that I'd already passed through the epic tunnel in Kawabata's contemplative novel Snow Country. So much for savoring the moment, but, before I knew it I was in Yuzawa, a quiet town surrounded by mountains that remain covered in snow until May. It's only 80 minutes away from Tokyo, but it feels a world away.... >> read more...

The train speeds on from Yuzawa north toward Tokamachi. It’s blinding white out, a pristine expanse of snow dotted with buildings done in an approximation of the Tudor style common to ski resort towns. At first glance, this could be somewhere in Northern Europe -- Scandinavia, Switzerland, Austria -- but the gauzy mist rising off the mountains reminds me quickly that we’re still in Japan.... >> read more...

My morning yukata is bright blue, covered with pink and white flowers. We arrived in the quaint village of Yahiko after 6:00 yesterday evening, allowing me just enough time to chat with JP and change into slippers before dinner. My room at the Minoya Hotel is small, spare, and charming in a somewhat utilitarian way....>> read more...

The weather in Yahiko yesterday was gloriously warm. After three days in the frozen center of Snow Country, it was nice to be able to walk around without a hat and long underwear. The day began with a tour of Yahiko Jinja, a shirne dedicated to the first emperor. Our guide was a sprightly older  ...>> read more...

Our time in Niigata City was hectic. After our visit to the senbei factory, we rounded out the day with a trip to the Northern Culture Museum, the former residence of the wealthy landowning Itoh family dating from the 1800s. It's a stunning example of traditional Japanese architecture, and, from the looks of things (including but not limited to the 100-tamami-mat wide banquet room, and the special entrance made of 100% keyaki wood), the Itoths were rolling in it. There's also a beautiful garden and a super cool triangular tea house/study, also built in the Japanese style, on the grounds....>> read more...

I'd heard that Murakami was famous for its salmon. Somehow I didn't make the connection between the seaside town in northern Niigata and the succulent Murakami wagyu beef praised by star chefs like Grant Achatz. Nor did I realize that both Miyao Shuzo, producers of the formidable Shimeharitsuru sake,...>> read more...

My suite at the Tsukioka Onsen resort is a small-scale, modern approximation of the summer homes where samurai once retreated for periods of quiet contemplation. The outer perimeter of the room is a lounge area, equipped with two refrigerators -- one just to chill glasses -- and a small heater to warm oshibori hand towels, with a view of Shibata city and the hotel's carefully manicured garden below...>> read more...

The participants at last week's Niigata Sake no Jin festival could have easily numbered over 80,000 people. As I looked across the crowds, I couldn't help wishing that my sake buddies Etsuko and Ted, Tim,Tony and Robert-Gilles could be there with me. The only thing more fun than going to a monster event like this one is going with friends who are seriously passionate about nihonshu...>> read more...